Everyone knows (has an opinion) about it and every third has been there. Venice is almost boring destination. Boring until one gets there. Regardless of what one has planned for himself, it is going to be the place like no other at the very least. It turns magical promptly, but there are few things that should be avoided. The most daunting are herds of day visitors between Rialto Bridge and San Marco square and inevitable shoddy merchandize to satisfy such crows. Every place of interest bows to it and the fact that Venice is small, very well-known and absolutely one of a kind only increases such annoyances. To escape fellow travellers is easy. It is surprising how little people stray from imaginary route of must-visit-places;
how they only want to walk the same calli to get to places. Roamers in Venice are rewarded more than anywhere else; and roamers, who stay in town for the night and are willing to wake up just after dawn, get it all. Late at night you wade in tidal waters on San Marco Square marvelling at water barriers by buildings’ doors and water inside shops and restaurants surrounding the square, thinking ‘How on Earth?’ and by the morning everything is gone.
Like you have imagined it all.
We had specifically chosen afternoon flight so we could be on the boat to Venice when the sun was setting down. Would had been nicer if it wasn’t just after the rain. Too cloudy but for the few rays of sun starting to get through. Perhaps, next time. Though water taxi is fun, especially if you sit right at the back under the removable roof (and it is dry/warm enough to remove it) and if you actually are staying in Venice, chances are it will be your only longer journey on the water as otherwise city is best explored on foot. Traghetti ride’s too short, gondola’s rather expensive and vaporetti’s way too crowed and unnecessary unless you want to do island-hoping.
Once there, your temporary palazzio better be nice since you are to spend excessive amount of money on the not so good one too.
It’s that surrounding limited-availability-sinking-beauty that keeps prices high and forces you to leave in good time. So you do not overdose. We managed to squeeze two nights and came out hurting for more time and more money to fund it.
Much more time is required to see more of La Bienalle too.
You can spend days walking pavilions in Gardini alone. And those of Arsenale. And ones scattered around city. You might as well rob a bank and move over to Venice...
Despite fair amount of unappealing eateries and bars in most obvious places, there are some nice ones too. Like everywhere in Italy aperitif hour cannot be avoided. Since it was already warm enough spritzs – dry or sweet and with an olive on the stick - were noticeable on every campo and campieli.
And chiccheti - tappas like everything Venetian style - mostly available for couple of hours in late afternoon and once it is gone, it is gone. Once over chiccheti, onto dinner. One could be lucky and stumble upon something nice, but it's better to do the homework: so pizza doesn't taste faul and plates suprice in a good way. It's easier to part with the money if one's happy. And boy, we were happy!
Return flights from LGW to Marco Polo for 2 - £304, http://www.bblemarie.it/ for 2 nights with breakfast - £190 +12eur city tax, Marco Polo Airport Link Transfer for 2 -£45.36, tickets to La Biennale for 2 - 43eur, spritz - 2eur, chiccheti from 1.5eur, coffee - 2.5eur, sit down lunch with drinks for 2 ~30-40eur, take away pizza with drinks ~15eur, dinner with drinks for 2 ~ 80eur, vaporetto(water bus) Alilaguna Venice to Marco Polo 15eur one way each.